Not sure how effective this is going to be, but I'm using 6mm rubber grommets as mini engine mounts to reduce motor vibration transmitting directly through to the hull.

Basic control layout providing easy access when rear tug floor is removed. Components and wiring diagram from Action Electronics

Aluminum fixing plates will have a thin layer of styrene to prevent circuit board electronics shorting out

Both 1:6 ratio geared main drive motors are fixed to 3mm aluminum sheet using 4mm allen headed stainless steel cap screws.

The grey plastic propshaft oiling pots are superglued in place on the stainless steel propshaft, a 0.5mm oil feed hole is drilled into propshaft.

Aluminum skids are glued, screwed and painted to the hull and kort nozzels making everything rock solid and helping to prevent snagging around the propeller when sailing in shallow water.

 

This shows the aluminum clamp that stop the prop shaft casing revolving in the white plastic support sleeve. 

I'll fillet the hull and aluminum with 24hr epoxy resin and seal any joints where water could ingress with silicon at a later date.

Both props and Kort Nozzels lined up, will secure in position with a dab of epoxy resin

Surprised at how fragile the rudder support is, very soft metal that bends easily, one careless mishap could result in bending the whole rudder/steering assembly. I'm thinking of strengthening this area with a detail like on the Andre-B

In the background are the plastic nozzle and propeller that comes with the Slipway kit. I decided to upgrade the propeller only to find it was about half a mm too big for the nozzle! 

I could have shaved the propeller down in size, but chose instead to remake the nozzle out of aluminum. Sometimes the gods shine down on you, and I was lucky enough to find an offcut of ally tube in my workshop just the right diameter and thickness!

A massive thanks to Alan of SRCMBC for his advice and guidance on RC transmitters. (Now to write my letter to Father Christmas).

Plucked up courage to cut into the hull. Chain drilled then used a dremel to shape the prop holes. Lots of nasty, itchy GRP dust, so hoovered that up quickly!

  
Offered the Prop shaft and propeller up to check clearance when parallel. Note the white plastic prop shaft sleeve, this will be glued in place allowing the prop shaft to be easily renewed if need be.